You have to take the source of this fine article into account. Print reviewers got clobbered by the online world and they’re still recovering. Newspapers have had to learn to compete with a medium they still don’t respect, but fear.

But being a big reviewer seems to have lost its cache anyway. When I teach general classes in food writing, fewer and few people want to know how to review. Maybe it’s because anyone can now put forth opinions online in multiple mediums, and because there are so few full-time jobs for reviewer — just a few dozen in the US now, I fear.